Now your Kitchen cabinet assembly is now complete

Once you’ve got your brand new kitchen cabinets you’re now in the right place to begin the next major step …..Installing the kitchen cabinets. Although the actual installation of Kitchen Cabinets isn’tall that hard The first and most important step is to measure and mark out the location where the cabinets will be. By putting layout marks on the floors and walls and floors, it will not only aid you in cabinet layout and stud location and stud locations, but also assist you in determining the areas where adjustments and shims may be needed. Before we begin, there are a few things you’ll need to complete the project:

custom cabinets near me

Pencil

Level or Laser Level or Laser

Drill

Tape Measure

Stud Finder

Clamps

1″ x 3″ Piece of wood (6′-8 long) as well as an Inverted U-shaped frame (see the below notes for more details)

Shims

Screws (long enough to reach 1 1/2 deep into the studs)

Chisel or utility knife

Marking Compass

A second pair of hands (you might have to get bribes from one of your buddies)

As I stated earlier there is the option to use a section 1 3′ x 1′ lumber for installation or constructing frames to support the cabinet (I have included a photo of a frame sample below). It can be constructed of 2’x4’s and should be long enough to hold the wall’s bottom cabinets. If you are planning to install more than one kitchen I suggest using the frame, however an individual piece of wood can be used in the case of an event that is only once. In any situation, you’ll require someone else to assist with the installation.

In this case , we purchased (RTA) Ready-to-assemble kitchen cabinets from RTA Kitchen & Bathroom Cabinet Store. After the kitchen cabinets have been installed, we’re now ready to begin marking the plans. Many people begin by laying out the cabinets that are base but we’ll begin by putting the cabinets on our walls first. There is no best or worst approach to begin with, but I would rather begin with the upper cabinets first.

1. Make use of a level as well as a pencil for drawing a line parallel to the wall, about 3 inches above the floor. Take a measurement down from the line from the floor and then locate the floors highest point (if there is one) and draw the line that is drawn at that point. From the high point, Measure up 34 1/2 inches and draw a straight horizontal line along the wall, to indicate that the ceiling of cabinet base.

2. Once you have the tops of the base cabinets marked, take a measurement upwards another 19 1/2 inches and draw a horizontal line along the wall to show the lower part of your wall cabinets. Make sure to mark each cabinet’s dimensions and their position on the wall, to ensure that the layout you originally planned is accurate.

3. Utilize a stud finder tool to find walls studs. Utilize a pencil to mark the locations of the studs minimum 6 inches higher but below the lines that runs along the wall’s bottom cabinets. Create straight horizontal lines in between the bottom and top marks to indicate the central point of the studs.

4. If you’ve have decided to use the 1 3′ x 1′ wood then this is the place you’ll use it (if you chose to use the U-shaped frame that will be in play after the lines have been drawn out). Attach the 1’x three-foot support frame onto the wall and align the upper part of it to the line of the lower edge of the cabinets. Connect it using 3 or 4 2 inch screws down the rail to the wall’s studs.

5. Once there are all lines drawn now is the time to begin installing your cabinets for kitchen use. We’ll start at the corners of the cabinet (here is the place where an extra pair of hands will be required). Set the corner cabinet on the support rail for temporary use and ask your helper to assist in holding the cabinet to keep it in place. Make pilot holes in the solid cabinet’s back or its support rail as well as in the wall’s wall studs. Attach the cabinet to the wall with two screws sufficient to go through the studs at least one and a half inches. The top of the cabinet to ensure level , and the front to determine if it is plumb. If you must correct the placement, move the screws back just a bit, and place the top shims are placed behind the cabinet in the stud positions. If the cabinet is straight and level, then drive the screws to the fullest and then insert a few more into each stud to make sure your cabinet remains attached securely against the wall.

6. Then we’ll begin installing the cabinets that are on each side of the cabinet with the corners. After you’ve installed the cabinets make use of the clamps to attach each cabinet to the adjacent cabinet, then test the cabinets for plumb on your level. When installing faceframe cabinets it’s a good idea to drill two pilot holes of 1/8 inch through the faces of the frame and utilize screws. For frames that are not frameless and ready to assemble kitchen cabinets, we will put screws through the sides of the plywood, and put shims between and the cabinet to guarantee a snug fit. Also, ensure that cabinets’ faces remain level.

7. Once all wall cabinets are installed then install the corner or the end of the base cabinet. Make use of shims for leveling the cabinets, and elevate it to the level that indicates the top that is the level of your floor. Make sure that it is completely level from front to rear and side to side and then secure it into walls studs. If there isn’t a corner cabinet with a diagonal or blind base cabinet on the corner, simply push the cabinet that is adjacent to it into position and then clamp the two units to each other. Use a filler strip as necessary to give the drawers and doors the space to close and open correctly. If needed tap shims underneath on the cabinets and in front of it to adjust the cabinet for the plumb level and.

8. Screws are driven into the back of cabinet (and the shims) to the wall’s studs. Cut off any excess material the shims using a sharp knife or chisel. Continue to join adjacent cabinets this way connecting them in exactly the same way as you joined with the cabinets on the wall in steps 6.

9. If your cabinets come in contact against a wall, it is possible that you will require the help of a filler strip in order to fill in the final few inches. If you’re using built-in cabinets that are custom, then they ought to have been designed to fill in this gap however if you’re using standard and RTA kitchen Cabinets this strip could be required. If you have to make use of a filler strip keep the last cabinet separate from other cabinet. Attach a straightedge to the wall of the closest installed cabinet, and extend it enough to allow you to place markings for alignment on the top wall. You should allow the 3/4″ offset from the lines (for how thick the piece of filler) and attach a cleat on the wall. Install and secure the final cabinet, and determine the gap between the frame of its face with the wall.

When the walls are level you can simply cut the filler board to the desired length and then secure it to the wall. When the walls are uneven it is necessary to scribe-fit the board. Begin by setting a marking with a compass that is the size of the gap. Next, apply a strip made of 1″-wide masking tape on the filler board, in the space that needs to be cut. Fix the board onto the of the frame on which the cabinet is mounted, and then draw the wall’s contour with the compass. Take the board off and cut it along the scribe line using an jig saw. Then put it back in place to verify the alignment. If it’s perfect then screw screws through the adjoining frame to the edges of the filler board. Attach on the opposite side onto the cleat.

Now your Kitchen cabinet assembly is now complete. If you have purchased matching crown moldings or other accessories, they can be installed in no time. Based on the fact that you needed to install shims underneath the cabinets that are base or not, you might need to attach certain trim pieces on the toe kicks to conceal the gaps caused by shims, or in the bottom of the cabinets in the kitchen.